Day 1 - St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles - 2 September, 2014

Time Departed: 7.20am
Time Arrived: 3.15pm
Distance: 25kms
Cumulative Distance: 25kms
Percentage Completed: 3.1%
Weather: Foggy,  sunny and hot
Accommodation: Hotel Roncesvalles
Feelings: Neil - Positive, Henk - Excited,  Di - Eager & Apprehensive

We did it! We climbed The Pyrenees. It took us eight hours. We are feeling quite chuffed with ourselves. It wasn't easy but not as hard as we expected it to be. Maybe our training paid off! We had a continental breakfast at 6.30am, bought our lunch  called "The Pilgrims Box" at an enterprising shop and we were walking down Rue de la Citadelle through the archway and over the River Nive at 7.20am. There were many other walkers. It was still quite dark and there was a thick fog which seemed to cast a blanket of quietness over everyone. The only noises that could be heard were boots on cobblestones and the clacking of walking poles. When anyone spoke it was in hushed tones. It was quite surreal.

Everyone walked very slowly out of the town following each other. No one was rushing and there was a great sense of camaraderie. The climb started almost immediately and was relentless. After three hours and eight kilometres we reached the Orisson Summit at about 10.30am and we knew that we had the tackled the most strenuous part. We were pleased with how we coped and with our time.
The pace continued to be slow as we continued to climb. We had early lunch at 11.00am to keep up our energy levels but we only stopped for 20mins as we didn't want our bodies and more importantly our feet to get stiff.

The higher we climbed we could hear the bells around the necks of sheep, cows and horses from the deep valleys below. Farm smells permeated a lot of the walk. We also began to climb higher than the clouds which was impressive.

Nine kilometres from Roncesvalles we crossed from France into Spain at a fountain called Fountaine de Roland which had the most exquisite cool water. The last 1.6kms to the summit was long and arduous. By this time the sun was high in the sky and it was hot. There were no trees for shade and this was the case along most of the route. 

We reached the summit, Col de Lepoeder, of 1450 metres at 1.00 pm and were once again pleased with our time as we had continued with our slow measured pace.

There was much discussion at the summit as to the best way down to the isolated Roncesvalles. We opted for the route recommended by the Camino Office and this followed a small road. It was four kilometres descending 300 metres and was a welcome respite after climbing all day. We passed many horses along the way. 

After hearing of stories later in the day about the alternate, shorter route which proved to be very steep and stony we were glad we took the route we did. One Aussie remarked to me that the last part of the walk killed him off completely! He was from Western Australia and said there were no hills in Perth to practice.

We had dinner, the Pilgrim's Meal, with other walkers at the Hotel. Thankfully, we got into the 7.00pm session rather than the 8.30pm session. I may not have been awake by 8.30pm! We shared our table with an Israeli family whose son is being conscripted into the army for three years.

Our hotel is amazing. We have two large rooms, a kitchen/living room and bedroom, and  it could house 50 pilgrims. We are so pleased not to be sleeping in the crowded dormitories (albergues).  Tonight I think we will sleep very well.

Tomorrow it's down hill!