Time Arrived: 1.15pm
Distance: 21kms
Cumulative Distance: 376 kms
Percentage Complete: 46%
Weather: Cloudy and cooler, rain later
Accommodation: San Zoilo Real Monasterio
Feelings: Henk - Positive, Neil - Positive, Di - Refreshed
It was a slightly shorter walking day and it was still mostly flat walking alongside roads and on a canal tow path. It was still dark when we walked through the Main Street of Fromista due to the sun rising later and a heavy cloud cover. We could see pilgrims having breakfast at the little cafes. Thankfully, it was a cooler day and the rain and storm that was predicted didn't eventuate until later in the afternoon. We joined a couple of other Australians walking out of the town.
After 3.5 kms of walking we were soon at Poblacion de Campos where we diverted from the path and took the alternate and slightly longer "green route" along the canal path. Last night's rain had left a few puddles.
We couldn't face twenty-one kilometres of walking on a path alongside a long, straight road. We did have to walk the last six kilometres beside the road when the two paths rejoined and it confirmed that we had made the right decision. Those last six kilometres were boring and became a real drudge.
At nine fifteen we came across an outdoor cafe on the outskirts of Villovieco. The overcast weather had given us an appetite and we had Spanish Potato Tortilla (Tortilla Espanola) which is popular fare. Clare, the young walker from Western Australia joined us soon after. She summed up our breaks succinctly when she said, "We're happy when our bellies are full and our bladders are empty!".
The long canal path diverted back onto a minor road at a large church, Virgen del Rio (Our Lady of the River) and we continued on this road for a couple of kilometres until we got to a little town called Villalcazar de Sirga (town of the canal towpath). There were a lot of references to the Camino throughout the town including statues. Some were quite unusual.
The town has been welcoming pilgrims since the twelfth century. It has a large Templar church, Santa Maria la Virgen Blanca built in the thirteenth century. This has an impressive portal entrance.
Carrion de Los Condes is a larger town of about 2000 people. Our accommodation was on the other side of the town and is an impressive converted monastery dating back over a thousand years.
It's about a twelve minute walk back to the main plaza. We were hungry when we arrived and quickly freshened up and went to find the hotel's cafe for lunch. We had a lovely surprise as in the foyer were the Canadians, Lisa and Bill and the Americans, Peggy and George. It was lovely to see them and we all had a good old chat over lunch. They decided that after yesterday's long, hot slog to have a day's break and they caught a taxi to Carrion de Los Condes. They arrived at the hotel at about eleven and were looking very refreshed.
Neil, Henk and I met in the foyer at six and walked back into town to visit a couple of the churches and have dinner. We met Clare again and she joined us for Menu del Dia (Menu of the Day) at a local cafe. It was great food especially the seafood soup. At eight o'clock we crossed the narrow laneway to the church, St Maria del Camino (St Mary of the Way) and attended the Pilgrim's Mass. It was a lovely service and once again the pilgrims were asked to come to the altar at the end of the service for a special blessing. We each received a paper star from the Augustine nuns to guide our way even in darkness.
We were in a quandary re tomorrow's breakfast as they don't serve until eight o'clock. The distance will be long at 26 kms and the first town we walk through will be at the 16 kilometre mark. In the end we decided to stay for the eight o'clock breakfast and bought lunch supplies whilst in town.
Each night Neil and Henk watch English movies dubbed in Spanish after we retire to our rooms. Last night Neil watched "The King's Speech" in Spanish and King George even stuttered in Spanish!
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