Time Arrived: 10.50am
Distance: 13kms
Cumulative Distance: 178kms
Percentage Completed: 22%
Weather: Cloudy, cool with a breeze
Accommodation: Hotel Rey Sancho
Feelings: Henk - Relaxed, Neil - Relaxed, Di - Relaxed
My morning:
Another day of taking the local bus. I can now walk almost pain free which is such a relief. The large blister on the right foot needs another day of drying out and then, hopefully, I should be fine. I was intending to catch the 9.35am bus to Navarrete which allowed me time to sort out where the bus stop was located and which side of the street I should be standing to make sure I went in the right direction. I arrived at the stop at 8.50am and the Navarrete bus arrived. I was on the right side of the street at the right time, hopped on and I was in Nevarrete fifteen minutes later. I headed for the church in the older part of town to try and get my bearings and immediately found the hotel. Lucky again.
The two Australians we keep meeting, Lyn and Alan, had left Lorgrono very early this morning and were already in Navarrete deciding whether to walk on or stay. We were joined by Sarah, a Scottish/Canadian at an outdoor cafe which had views over the newer part of Navarrete. We had a lovely time sitting in cooler weather chatting and having coffees. All of us had foot issues - blisters or bruising. Sarah's foot issues made her make the decision to catch a bus to get her further along the path and Lyn and Alan decided to stay.
Even though we knew Navarrete to be smaller Neil, Henk and I agreed this time to be specific where to meet and this was outside the hotel. Our hotel is excellent, in a good location on the Camino and only a couple of doors down from the Asuncion Church which was built in the sixteenth century. After a coffee we toured the church and it was a hive of activity as five elderly local ladies were cleaning it. Above the noise of the industrial vacuum cleaner they happily talked to each other and were clearly proud of their church. The impressive gold altarpiece was having a thorough dusting!
Henk and Neil's Morning:
It took about forty minutes at a good pace to get to the edge of Logrono along footpaths and finally grassy parkland which was good underfoot. On the outskirts of Logrono we walked through a specially constructed tunnel for Camino walkers. Icons such as the scallop shell and silhouettes of walkers were formed from pre-existing graffiti. It was well painted with the Camino route also included.
The majority of the walk was alongside vineyards fully laden with grapes and surrounded by almond trees. Cyprus Pines also were a feature.
Part of the walk was around a very large reservoir which is the first body of water we have seen. Just before the reservoir we also had our first wild animal sighting of a rather-tame red squirrel perched close by on a tree.
At the peak of the walk, Alto de la Grajera, was another Camino icon of a very large silhouette of a bull which could be seen from quite a distance.
As we descended to cross the major road over a bridge a storm was happening in the distance and this gave us spurt on before we climbed to the hillside town of Navarrete.
After Dinner:
We decided to go to the Pilgrim's Mass at eight o'clock. There were about 30 local woman at the front and about 30 walkers sprinkled throughout the pews. The women were in fine voice and the church looked magnificent as all the lights were shining on the gold altar. At the end of the service the "Caminos" were invited to come to the front and the women sang a Camino song to us. It was lovely. Then the most amazing thing happened. The very friendly Spanish priest led us through an old doorway on the side into a magnificent, large private room, The Sacristy. It had very old artworks on three sides. He spoke in Spanish so we didn't understand too much except that one of the paintings, a Flemish triptych of the Assumption by Ambrosius Benson (1540 - 1545). Some of his other works are held in the Prado. At one end were two huge, old doors (4 metres x 1.5 metres each) which the priest opened with a large, very old key. We thought he was going to lead us outside onto the street but the door opened to a magnificent collection of religious objects - all in gold, silver, pearls, ivory and jewels which filled the entire cupboard. It was like an Aladdin's Cave and it glowed as it was fully lit. Some of the items are used during religious festivities throughout the year. We all couldn't believe what we were seeing. A relic from St Barbara and a few others were also on the glass shelving. To see this magnificent collection was a once in a lifetime experience.
No comments:
Post a Comment