Time Arrived: 3.00pm
Distance: 26 kms
Cumulative Distance: 402 kms
Percentage Completed: 50%
Weather: Mostly cloudy and cool
Accommodation: Albergue Los Templarios
Feelings: Henk - Apprehensive, Neil - Guarded, Di - Unsure
We had a very good day despite our misgivings about the distance we had to walk. The eight o'clock breakfast wasn't quite ready which resulted in some eager walkers banging on the dining room door and rattling the handle. I came across the American woman who has been wearing a large knee brace since Burgos and asked her if she was taking any painkillers. She said she was taking "Hiker's Candy" which is ibuprofen. She said a lot of walkers were taking it to get through each day. It also seems to be called "Camino Candy" and is readily available in high dosages at the Farmacias.
The path was long and straight for most of the day passing through featureless farmlands. We could see tens and tens of walkers in front of us.
At about six kilometres we caught up with John and Linda and the Sydney couple, Lyn and Alan as they were taking a break at some picnic tables on the side of the track. It was good to see them again but we needed to move on. They had more time as they were only doing the 17 kms to Calzadilla de la Cueza. Apparently, it is a psychological test to get to Calzadilla as it is so monotonous. During this stretch I met two Dutch couples in their forties who spoke excellent English. They are undertaking the Camino in sections over a number of years. I told them the story of meeting my relative John. One said, "The Way delivers." I also told them of Henk's Dutch heritage.
After 17 kms our first break was at the first town of the day, Calzadilla de la Cueza. We were pleased with our walking time arriving at noon and also our physical condition. We felt good. Calzadilla is a small town and the streets were bare.
Despite seeing so many walkers in front of us during the day we couldn't see anyone. We wanted to take a decent break and have a good lunch. We followed an arrow and a bar sign painted on the road which was pointing off the Camino and down a narrow street. We turned the corner and found everyone at a cafe. The place was heaving and all the backpacks were lined up against the wall outside the cafe.
We had local Spanish food of artichoke salad and chicken sausage with chunks of bread. Neil had a locally made sausage pasty. It was all very delicious. It was just what we needed. It was good to stop and rest. As we were about to leave John and Linda arrived. They were staying at the hostel above the cafe.
As we walked away from the cafe John called out from his bedroom window. We all looked up and he was waving to us.
The Dutch were sitting at an outside table below the window and asked if John was "the cousin". As we moved on one of the Dutch guys called out. "Hey Henk! Do you know that I'm actually your brother?" It was very funny.
Having completed the 17 kms in such good time gave us an enormous psychological boost. We only had nine kilometres to go. We chose the alternate green route which was only slightly longer but it provided enough variation to take away the monotony. There were acres and acres of dead sunflowers waiting to be harvested.
We wondered during the day as to what our accommodation would be like. It was a lovely surprise and is a new albergue on the edge of the town.
This is our first albergue experience however we have private rooms.
There are also six communal rooms with four to six beds in each. It's an impressive complex with a cafe and bar, outdoor seating area and restaurant. We met on the front deck for a drink and we were joined by David the very fit 69 year old from America. He is a very interesting character who speaks fluent Spanish and we have walked with him on a few occasions during the past week. He admits to taking a Hikers Candy before he goes to sleep as it helps the muscles to relax.
Dinner was at 7.00pm in the dining room where we had the Menu de Peregrino with about 50 other Peregrinos. David joined us at our table and we had an enjoyable discussion across a range of topics.
We have now reached the 50% mark for both distance and time. We started the walk three weeks ago today and hope we will finish in three weeks time. We are having a wonderful time.
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